Hickory Ridge Pillow – Free Crochet Pattern

The perfect way to add a little cozy to your couch, my Hickory Ridge Pillow is my newest free crochet pattern in partnership with JOANN.

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Read through my inspiration, design process, and more below!

The Insipration

I’m constantly inspired by modern rustic decor. It’s just so simple and chic. This month, I wanted to create something that could easily fit into any decor without overwhelmingly looking too ‘crocheted’

I love crochet, don’t get me wrong, but often the pieces don’t feel like they fit into a modern rustic home, this pillow changes that!

I decided to create a circular crochet pillow in a simple stitch and a shell border. It would be chic enough to fit into my home but not so much that it screams handmade.

I wanted to go with a yarn that was soft. Not just soft after you wash it but soft right from the skein. I chose Red Heart Yarns Hygge.

It comes in large enough skeins to need just a couple for a single pillow and the colors are beautiful. You can see the full line on the JOANN website here.

The Design

The pillow is quick to stitch and uses just three basic stitches.

Ch – Chain
Sc – Single Crochet
Dc – Double Crochet

That’s it. The perfect pillow for beginners and well seasoned crocheters alike! You just need to know how to work in the round! How cool is that?

The Pattern

Finished Pillow Side:

14″ in Diameter

Here are all the supplies you need, each available from your local JOANN:

Sample Pillow uses Red Heart Yarns Hygge in color Pearl

Pillow Cover (Make 2)

Ch 4

Rnd 1: Work 9 dc in 4th ch from hook, do not join. Place marker in last st worked to mark beg of rnd. (10 dc)

Rnd 2: 2dc in each st around. (20 dc)

Rnd 3: 2dc in each st around. (40 dc)

Rnd 4: (2dc in next st, dc in each of the next 3 dc) around. (50 dc)

Rnd 5: (2dc in next st, dc in each of the next 4 dc) around. (60 dc)

Rnd 6: (2dc in next st, dc in each of the next 5 dc) around. (70 dc)

Rnd 7: (2dc in next st, dc in each of the next 6 dc) around. (80 dc)

Rnd 8: (2dc in next st, dc in each of the next 7 dc) around. (90 dc)

Rnd 9: (2dc in next st, dc in each of the next 8 dc) around. (100 dc)

Rnd 10: (2dc in next st, dc in each of the next 9 dc) around. (110 dc)

Rnd 11: (2dc in next st, dc in each of the next 10 dc) around. (120 dc)

Finish off.

Assembly

Holding the WS of pillow covers together, single crochet through both thicknesses of fabric around to last 10 sts. Place a stitch marker in the last loop to keep join from unraveling. Stuff pillow using fiberfill, massaging it into a circular shape. Finish crocheting remaining stitches to close pillow.

Shell Stitch Trim: *Sc in next st, sk next 2 sts, 5dc in next st, sk next 2 sts; rep from * around, join to first sc. Finish off.

Weave in all ends. Wash and lay flat to block.

Cedar Island Sweater – Free Crochet Pattern

Take a trip to the coast of North Carolina in this gorgeous simple to stitch crochet sweater. Hear about my inspiration, design process, and find the free pattern below!

You can grab the kit which includes all the yarn and the pattern from my friends at Lion Brand here!

The Inspiration

North Carolina has been my home for ten years, but I’ve always felt like I was born here. The people, the communities, the coast…all of it mean so much to me.

Cedar Island is one of our small coastal towns. I’ve always loved that the coastal communities of North Carolina are as integral to the landscape of this state as the mountains. They have their own way of life, their own appreciation of the land, and their own love for this great state.

This sweater was inspired by the coastal way of life. It’s simple, chic, and easy to wear. Throw it on with a pair of jeans for a day of shopping, or over a dress for a night on the town. Dressed up or dressed down, it’s the perfect accent to your summer wardrobe.

The Design

This sweater uses a style of crochet construction that was popular a few decades ago, which is often referred to as a ‘T’ style construction. You begin by working the body of the sweater and add the sleeves by adding stitches at the beginning and end of the row. Then, you continue to work the sweater until the sleeves are the desired width.

It’s simple to stitch and a perfect canvas for stitch patterns and colorwork. This is why I chose to feature a graphic white pop of color.

The ‘V’ design is created by working a single chart from right to left, then left to right. It’s much simpler than it looks and you only need to know how to change a color.

A note on sizing. This pattern is made slightly cropped and offers sizes in a range of 34 – 46 inches, to fit a bust of 30 – 46 inches. The sample shown is in the 46 inch size on a model with a 46 inch bust. The length show in 17.75 inches and shown on a model who is 5′ 10″ tall.

The Pattern

Note: This pattern does require color changes. For a quick and easy video please check here.

Skill Level: Easy

Materials:

Lion Brand Yarn Coboo Yarn (50% Cotton/50% Bamboo; CYC 3: Light; 232yds/212m; 3.5oz/100g)

Yarn A: Tan (#835-123) x 3 (4, 4, 5) balls

Yarn B: White (#835-100)x 1 ball

US H/8 (5mm) Crochet Hook

Tapestry Needle

Gauge: Work 16dc and 8 rows to measure 4in x 4in over double crochet using 5mm hook, or size required to obtain gauge.

Dimensions:

To Fit Bust: 30-34 (34-38, 38-42, 42-46) inches

Finished Bust: 34 (38, 42, 46) inches

Sleeve Seam: 9 inches

Length: 17 (17.25, 17.5, 17.75) inches

Top shown is an Extra Large. Model is 5’10” tall with a 46” bust.

Abbreviations:

Ch – Chain

Dc – Double Crochet

St(s) – Stitches

Rep – Repeat

In – Inch

WS – Wrong Side

Notes:

Front and back (including sleeves) are each worked in one piece from the bottom up.

Follow the chart for intarsia pattern.

Pattern Instructions

Front

With 5mm hook and yarn A, ch 70 (74, 78, 82).

Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (68, 72, 76, 80 sts)

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st here and throughout), dc in each dc across, turn.

Rep row 2, and at the same time start color chart at starting point given for chosen size, and follow it until piece measures 10in., ending with a WS row.

Note: If a longer sweater is desired, simply work more rows as needed before beginning intarsia chart.

Chart

Work chart from starting point, right to left to center then return left to right across second half of sts. Each section represents a size. Section 1 (the smallest section) is for SMALL. Section 2 (next size up) is for MEDIUM. Section 3 is for LARGE. Section 4 is for EXTRA LARGE.

White – Color A

Grey – Color B

Shape Sleeves

Row 1: Working at end of row, ch 38, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, continuing to follow chart, do not turn. (104, 108, 112, 116 sts)

Row 2: Ch 38, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, continuing to follow chart, do not turn. (140, 144, 148, 152 sts)

Row 3: Ch 2, dc in each dc across, continuing to follow chart, turn.

Rep Row 3 until piece measures 17 (17.25, 17.5, 17.75)in. from beginning.

Fasten off.

Back

Work as for front, omitting color changes.

Seam sides and underarms. Seam top of sleeves to center 32 stitches. Work an optional single crochet border with Yarn B, if desired.

Weave in ends. Steam block to finish.

Adalyn Rose Afghan Block – Free Crochet Pattern

I’ve never really been a huge fan of crochet afghans. I know, I know that’s heresy in the crochet world but, it was just so much work for little reward.

That all changed when I designed this beauty, The Roll Stitch Afghan.

You can still take this class at Annie’s Creative Studio!

Since then, I’ve been obsessed with afghans! From the Palisade Throw (pictures soooooon!) to the Stained Glass Afghan (pictures sooooooon!) I’ve been stitching all the afghans I can. Not really finishing any, but that’s not important is it? It’s all in the making. Who cares If I ever finish one?


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With that said, I’ve never really designed an afghan that I LOVED, like really loved. That was until yesterday. Yep. Yesterday.

I was in the middle of stitching this hat, (stay with me…LOL), and it just wasn’t working out. Every color combo I chose was awful. AWFUL. I mean, the dang thing is STILL sitting in a box waiting to restitched. It was at that time that I jumped on an Instagram Live and started chatting it up. AND I DESIGNED A NEW BLOCK.

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Now, it’s not groundbreaking. For all intents and purposes…it’s a simple granny square. The color work is what gives this block it’s bang for it’s buck. Let me show you, it’s easier than telling you.

Pattern for the block is below. It’s only the block, not a whole afghan. You can just take the block and combine as many as you’d like to make the afghan you’d like. It’s a really fun and easy to work. You do need a pretty good knowledge of crochet and working with different colors at the same time!

I made a mock up of what this would look like as a finished afghan!

Pretty cool right? You’ll need about 30 of the blocks to make this, which would give you and afghan about 35in. x 42in. without a border. Perfect for a baby/toddler!

Pattern

Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.
PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.

The Adalyn Rose Afghan Block is a chic, easy to stitch, colorful granny square!

Materials:
– Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in 3 Colors
– G/6 (4mm Crochet Hook)
– Tapestry Needle
– Scissors

Finished Size:
About 7 inches

Abbreviations (US terms):
Ch – chain
Dc – Double Crochet
Sl st – Slip Stitch
Rnd – Round
St(s) – Stitches

Skill Level:
Level 2 – Easy

Pattern Notes:
– Granny square is worked from the center out in joined rounds with RS facing at all times.
– Square uses color changes, to change colors, work until last two loops on hook, join new color, and finish stitch as needed.
– Weave in ends as work progresses.
– Join with a sl st.

Directions for Making:

Ch 4

Rnd 1: 2dc (ch 2, 3dc) three times in 4th ch from hook, ch 2, join to beg ch-4.
Rnd 2: Sl st in each of the next 2dc and in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2dc, ch 2, 3dc) in same ch-2 sp, (ch 1, [3dc, ch 2, 3dc]) three more times, ch 1, join to beg ch-3.

Rnd 3: Sl st in each of the next 2dc and in next ch-2 sp, drop A, join B [see figure 1], ch 3, (2dc, ch 2, 3dc) in same ch-2 sp, join A [Figure 2 and 3], *ch 1, 3dc in next ch-1 sp joining B before ending last dc, ch 1, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch-2 sp, join A; rep from * around, ch 1, join with a sl st. Finish off A.

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Round 3

Rnd 4: Sl st in each of the next 2dc and in next ch-2 sp, drop B, join C [see figure 1], ch 3, (2dc, ch 2, 3dc) in same ch-2 sp (see photo below), join B [Figure 2 and 3], *(ch 1, 3dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, joining C before ending last dc, ch 1, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch-2 sp, join B; rep from * around, ch 1, join with a sl st.

Processed with VSCO with al1 preset
Round 4

Rnd 5: Sl st in each of the next 2dc and in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2dc, ch 2, 3dc) in same ch-2 sp, *ch 1, 3dc in next ch-1 sp, joining B before ending last dc, ch 1, 3dc in next ch-1 sp, join C, ch 1, 3dc in next ch 1 sp, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * around, ch 1, join with a sl st. Finish off B.

Round 5

Rnd 6 and all following rounds:  Sl st in each of the next 2dc and in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2dc, ch 2, 3dc) in same ch-2 sp, *ch 1, 3dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across to next ch-2 sp, (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * around, ch 1, join with a sl st.

Finished Block

And that’s it! Easy peasy puddin’ pie!

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Now, here is my final tip that just didn’t fit into the pattern. You’ll notice I don’t really mention color changes. That’s simply because I know we all have a preference. Me? I will do ANYTHING to keep from having to weave in ends. ANYTHING.

So, I chose to crochet over the floats of yarn in the back, essentially where I carried the yarn from cluster to cluster. Take a look:

This was the easiest and quickest way to get from color to color. If it’s easier, you could also break the yarn and rejoin as needed!

I hope y’all love this afghan square as much as I do. I’m working on a full afghan pattern with it, so be on the lookout for that in the next month or so. In the meantime I’d love to see your finished blocks! So, if you make one and are on Instagram (first give me a follow here @rohnstrong) use the hashtag #adalynroseblock! I’ll keep an eye out and share them on Instagram!

Until next time y’all!

xoxo,

Rohn