Tunisian Delight Sampler – Gauge

Today is Day 1 of our Rohn Strong May 2020 Crochet Along! As a reminder, we are crocheting the Tunisian Delight Sampler Afghan Crochet Along and I couldn’t be more excited! For all the information you need to get started including dates, yarn amounts, and more please head to this blog post HERE or watch this video below:

Today, we’re going to work our Gauge swatches and chat a bit about why gauge is so important, even on an afghan like this!

So, what is gauge.

Gauge, sometimes referred to as ‘tension’, is the number of stitches and rows per inch. This is listed in the pattern near the beginning and usually given in a 4 inch by 4 inch multiple.

For example, most of the blocks in this pattern have a gauge of 3 sts per inch and 3 rows per inch. Given in the 4 inch by 4 inch multiple, the pattern reads, 12 sts by 12 rows.

So, why do we try to match gauge in a pattern?

  1. You want to make sure your afghan comes out the right size.
  2. You want to make sure you have enough yarn!

Yarn is the biggie here. Because we are working from stash, ensuring we have the right gauge will mean we don’t need extra yarn. A tighter gauge than that I used will mean you need more yarn. A looser gauge will mean you need less yarn.

Why wouldn’t gauge match?

Chances are you are not using the same yarn and hook as me. You might hold your yarn a little different. You might even crochet different than me! All those things have a big impact on your gauge and can change the stitches and rows per inch.

So, keep that in mind!

Making the Gauge Swatch

The pattern below is what we will follow today. Remember, there is a video tutorial that covers all this info and shows how to work the gauge swatch, step by step. You can find that below!

Gauge Swatch Pattern

Ch 20

Foundation Row: With yarn in back, *insert hook in next ch, yarn over and pull up a loop; rep from * across. (20 loops)

Return Pass: Ch 1, *yarn over, pull through next 2 loops on hook; repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.

Row 1: With yarn in back, insert hook from right to left under next vertical bar, yarn over and pull up a loop; rep from * across. (20 loops)

Return Pass: Ch 1, *yarn over, pull through next 2 loops on hook; repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.

Rep Row 1, 8 more times. This will give you a total of 10 rows including the foundation row.

Last Row: With yarn in back, insert hook from right to left under next vertical bar, yarn over and pull up a loop, pull first loop near head of hook through loop on shaft of hook; rep across row.

This final row is called a tunisian slip stitch!

Image (C) Annie’s Publishing

That’s it! That is your gauge swatch!

Now, we need to get a ruler and measure our stitches and rows per inch. Count the number of sts and rows over four inches.

Now, if you have fewer stitches per inch than I do, you’re a tight crocheter and need to go up in hook size. If you have fewer stitches per inch than I do, you’re a loose crocheter and need to go down a hook!

Really, that is all there is to it!

But…what if I’m off?

It can be hard as heck to get the right gauge in tunisian crochet! Don’t fret though. I’m going to share my three tips for getting gauge in tunisian crochet the first time every time!

  1. Use the right hook. The general rule of thumb is that corded hooks will give you a slightly tighter gauge whereas straight hooks will give you a bit looser gauge. This isn’t universal but it’s one of those ‘rules’ that I’ve always followed. If you are typically a tighter crochet, stick with a straight hook. If you are a looser crocheter, try a corded hook!
  2. Rows vs Stitches. Typically it’s easier to change the row gauge versus the stitch gauge. Why? Well, the stitch gauge is, in part, determined by the row gauge. So, a tighter row gauge will often mean a tighter stitch gauge. Simply going up a single hook size won’t have the much of an impact on your stitch gauge, if you’re having trouble matching it. If your stitch gauge is really tight, you’ll want to go up two hook sizes, minimum.
  3. It’ll block out. What? Yes. I promise. Tunisian crochet has a touch of horizontal stretch which will make it easier to block your swatch and make it a touch wider. Have you ever heard the saying, “It’ll block out”? It will! I promise! This will only work if you’re less than an inch from the desired width. Anything more than an inch will not block out. It’ll result in a warped piece.

Getting gauge is tough, I know. It can be super frustrating but it is really really important to make sure that the piece you are working on is just the right size and you won’t ruin out of yarn. There is nothing worst than making a project and running out of yarn when you are nearly through! A correct gauge will make sure that doesn’t happen in the long run.

Ringer Tee | Free Crochet Baby Tee Pattern

It might not be Friday but why should that day get all the fun? Tuesday’s deserve Free Pattern Love too, right? Right.

Today, I’m excited to share with y’all my Ringer Tee! It’s the cutest little tee with simple stripes, little pops of color, and THAT POCKET?!

I mean, I don’t know what a baby needs a pocket for but I don’t care. I’m here for it. You know what I mean?

Inspirations from Giving Back…

For the last few months I’ve been a member of the Annie’s Caring Crochet Kit Club. It’s this amazing crochet kit club wherein every month you get this shipment of yarn/materials/pattern to make an item that you can then donate to a charity. It’s amazing!

I’ve always believe that crocheters have some of the biggest hearts out there and we just love to use our hooks to give back. Now, in this turbulent world, we have the ability to make real and lasting change by giving back. Annie’s Caring Crochet Kit Club let’s me do just that.

Well, a couple months back I received a shipment and filmed a youtube video HERE all about it.

I also gave some tips and tricks about sewing pockets to crochet using slip stitches. THAT my friends, inspired this little sweater! Those slip stitches were so dang easy and fun I couldn’t resist. AND THE POCKET. I just can’t it’s too darn cute!

Baby Sweaters Are AMAZING

Here’s the deal…I don’t have a baby and ain’t planning on having one for quite awhile and while I’m a designer and get to design whatever the heck I want…lately I’ve been gravitating toward baby sweaters!

Why?

They are the perfect little numbers for trying out new techniques. Small, compact, and quick to stitch means they are the perfect little projects for testing out new yarn, learning new techniques, or playing with new stitches.

The Ringer Tee’s great because you’ll learn how to work a sweater from the top down, how to work surface slip stitches, and when your finished you’ll have the perfect gift to give when one of your friends has a baby in 7-8 months.

Quarantine is just loads of fun friends.

Surface Slip Stitches AND a Pocket?

YES! These stripes are SO easy and SO fun to work. After you finish the sweater you’ll grab the contrast color of your choice (I went with a pumpkin orange cause its my fav right now) and slip stitch into each of the double crochet stitches around. It’s actually quite easy! You can find a great tutorial from my friends at The Crochet Crowd here!

The Ringer Tee also features a pocket. Why? I don’t know but I couldn’t justify not having a pocket on a little baseball inspired tee? You know? So, I just had too. That’s it friends. That’s why.

Ringer Tee Pattern

Materials

US G/6 4mm Crochet Hook
Red Heart Yarns Super Saver Yarn
1 Skein each of Royal, Carrot, and White
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Finished Measurements

Chest Measurements: 19.5 (21.5) inches
Length Measurement: 11 inches

To Fit Size:

0-6 months (6-12 months)

Gauge

16 dc and 8 rows = 4″ (10 cm)

Abbreviations:

Ch = Chain
Dc = Double Crochet
Sl st = Slip Stitch
Rnd(s) = Round(s)

Pattern Notes:

Tee is worked from the top down beginning with a foundation chain and working into both the top and bottom. Increases are then worked every round until sleeves and body are split.

Dinger Tee Pattern

With Royal, ch 58 (62) very loosely. Note: If you are a tight chainer like me, try using a crochet hook size 2-3 sizes larger.

Rnd 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (56, 60 dc)

Taking care not to twist stitches, join with a sl st to first dc. Fasten off Royal.

Rnd 2: Join White, Ch 3 (counts as the first dc here adn throughout), dc in each of the next 7 (8) sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, dc in each of the next 10 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, dc in each of the next 16 (18) dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, dc in each of the next 10 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, dc in each of the 8 (9) dc. Join to beg ch-3 with a sl st.

Place stitch markers in each of the four ch-1 spaces around. Move markers up to new ch-1 space as your work progresses.

Rnds 3-10 (11): Ch 3, *dc in each dc to next stitch marker, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp; rep from * around to last ch-1 sp, dc in each dc to end of rnd. Join to beg ch-3 with a sl st.

Divide Sleeves and Body

Rnd 11 (12): Ch 3, dc in each of the next 16 (18) dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3 for underarm, skip next 28 (32) dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in each of the next 34 (38) dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3 for under arm, skip next 28 (32) dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in each of the last 17 (19) dc. Join to beg ch-3 with a sl st.

Body

Rnd 12 (13): Ch 3, dc in each dc and ch around. (78, 86 dc)

Rnd 13 (14): Ch 3, dc in each dc around.

Rep last Rnd until body of sweater measures 6 inches from underarm. Fasten off White. Join Royal. Work one further round. Fasten off.

Sleeves

With White and RS facing, join with a sl st in any st on sleeve.

Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc in each dc and ch around. (31, 35 dc) Fasten off white.

Rnd 2: Join Royal, ch 3, dc in each dc around. Fasten off Royal.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Stripes

With Carrot, work surface slit stitches in each stitch around. I chose to work these stitches into every other row of white. But you can work more or less! Take this time to really stretch those design legs!

Pocket

With Royal, Ch 11

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (10 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.

Rep row 2 a further six times.

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st across to last two sts, sc2tog.

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.

Row 11: As Row 9.

Row 12: As row 10. Fasten off.

Position pocket on right side of sweater and sew to body of sweater.

Weave in all ends. Wash and lay flat to block.

That’s it friends! I mean…how flippin cute is this Ringer Tee!? Like I said, just a few minutes and a couple colors of worsted weight yarn and you’re good! Remember to share your projects with me on Instagram HERE and to join the Rohn Strong Crochet Club HERE!

Draper Baby Booties | Free Crochet Pattern

Y’all! It’s time for Free Pattern Friday! When I tell you I had this last minute idea for the actual cutest pair of baby booties…I ain’t lyin!

Here’s the thing about baby booties…I don’t love making them a whole lot. Which, sounds insane coming from the crochet sock king…ya know?

Anyway, I started working up Baby booties a few weeks ago and couldn’t stop! They are just SO fun and SO easy to make. All you need is a handful of yarn, a crochet hook, and about 20 minutes from start to finish!

Easy Peasy…Puddin’ Pie

Baby booties are literally the perfect beginner crochet project. They take about 10 minutes, use up the tiniest bit of yarn, and (in most cases) use just basic stitches.

The Draper Baby Booties use single, half double, and double crochet stitches to shape them for the littlest of little feets!

Two for the Price of One!

You’ll notice in the photos I’ve given two different options for these booties! Little baby blue and cream stripes AND all over brown. Now, of course, you can make these any colors you want but I thought these were just the cutest little combos.

If you want to make a solid pair, simply follow the pattern below but omit the color changes!

Sound good?

Draper Baby Bootie Pattern

Download your PDF of this pattern HERE!

Materials

US H/8 5mm Crochet Hook
25yds Worsted Weight Yarn in Color A
10 yds Worsted Weight Yarn in Color B
Tapestry Needle
Scissors

Finished Measurements:

About 4 inches long

To Fit Size:

Booties will fit newborn to 3 months.

Abbreviations:

Ch = Chain
Dc = Double Crochet
Sc = Single Crochet
Hdc = Half Double Crochet
Sc2tog = Single Crochet 2 Together
Sl st = Slip Stitch

Pattern Notes:

Booties are worked in one piece from bottom of slipper to top in joined rounds.

With A, Ch 8

Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each of the next 5 ch, 3sc in next ch, working in opposite side of foundation ch, sc in each of the next 5 ch, 2 sc in last ch. Join to first sc with a sl st, do not turn. (16 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2sc in first sc, sc in each of the next 5 sc, 2hdc in each of the next 3 sc, sc in each of the next 5 sc, 2sc in each of the next 2 sc. Join to first sc with a sl st, do not turn. (22 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, 2sc in each of the next 2 sc, sc in each of the next 5 sc, 2dc in each of the next 6 hdc, sc in each of the next 5 sc, 2 sc in each of the last 4 sc. Join to first sc with a sl st, do not turn. (34 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, working in back loops around, sc in each st, change to color B. Join to first sc with a sl st, do not turn. (34 sc)

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, change to color A. Join to first sc with a sl st, do not turn. (34 sc)

Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 9 sc, sc2tog 6 times, sc in each of the next 13 sc, change to color B. Join to first sc with a sl st, do not turn. (28 sc)

Rnd 7: As Rnd 5.

Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 7 sc, sc2tog 6 times, sc in each of the next 9 sc, change to color B. Join to first sc with a sl st, do not turn. (22 sc)

Rnd 9: As Rnd 5.

Rnd 10: Ch 1, sl st in each st around.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

That’s it friends! I mean…how flippin cute are these Easy Striped Baby Booties!? Like I said, just a few minutes and a couple colors of worsted weight yarn and you’re good! Remember to share your projects with me on Instagram HERE and to join the Rohn Strong Crochet Club HERE!